KUNAL BASU

The Balucharee from Bengal is the jewel in India's glittering crown of weavers. Praised for its unique character, it has emerged as a hot favourite among contemporary women. The revival in interest has spawned a galloping industry, with its own mix of hope and gloom.

While the Balucharee of today represents a departure from its Mughal ancestor, its revival is a story of success on many fronts: aesthetic, entrepreneurial and technological. But despite its market success, debates rage on over tradition and modernity with clashing perspectives among designers and art historians, weavers and buyers. A great many stakes are played out in its day to day creation, with bids from a variety of stakeholders both public and private.

The success of the weavers has drawn attention to the failures in their community in terms of health, education and the abuse of child labour. The Magic Loom raises more questions than it answers; like the story-telling Balucharee saree, it tells a tale with many twists and turns still to be unveiled in its plot.

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